Free Pattern Step-by-Step Crochet
Garments

Granny square baby overalls in sage and cream

Granny square baby overalls with sunflower centers, ribbed cuffs, and button straps.

Level
Intermediate
Time
15-22 hours
Hook
4.0 mm
Yarn
Worsted
Granny square baby overalls in sage and cream

Pattern highlights

  1. Make a stack of sunflower granny squares with taupe petal centers and sage and cream outer rounds.
  2. Join squares edge to edge through both layers at once to build the bib front and back panels.
  3. Assemble the left and right leg panels the same way, then join the side panels to connect them.
  4. Join all the body panels together, then attach the leg panels to the main body.
  5. Work ribbed cuffs flat in rows, seam each into a ring, and attach to the leg openings.
  6. Add a top edge border around the opening, then make and attach the two straps.
  7. Sew on the wooden buttons so the straps close over the bib front.

About This Pattern

I keep a shelf for the patterns that cross over from blanket logic into garment logic. This one lives there. It takes the humble granny square, a motif most of us learn in our first month of crocheting, and asks it to become something structural rather than decorative.

The techniques are familiar on their own. Working in the round, swapping colors mid-motif, seaming through corresponding stitches on two right sides at once. What is new is the sequence: squares first, then panels, then a garment that has to fit a moving baby.

The finished object is a pair of overalls with a sunflower-centered bib, ribbed cuffs at the ankles, and two straps closing over wooden buttons. It reads as heirloom, but it washes like the everyday worsted-weight piece it actually is.

Worth knowing

The satisfaction here is in the layering. Each square builds from a taupe petal round out to sage and cream shells, so you get a little color-change rhythm every few rounds instead of one long stretch of the same hue. Then there is the join itself: working through both layers' corresponding stitches at once, which flattens into a visible ridge rather than a bulky seam. I like that the ribbed cuffs are worked flat and then seamed into rings, a small shift in logic after all that in-the-round work. By the time you reach the straps and buttons, you are not just finishing a blanket square project. You are finishing a garment, which feels like a different kind of win.

Common mistakes

  • Petal round tension too tight Keep the chain-3 loops in Round 2 relaxed so the petals sit raised instead of curling flat. A too-tight loop flattens the whole point of the sunflower center.
  • Joining through only one layer Check that your hook catches the corresponding edge stitch on both squares before you slip stitch. One missed layer leaves a weak spot that will show once the piece is worn.
  • Cuffs worked too short Measure the actual leg opening on your finished panel before stopping the cuff rows. A cuff that falls short of that circumference will not seam into a ring without puckering.
  • Losing track of panel orientation Lay out the bib front, back, and both leg panels before joining so you know which edges meet. It is easy to join a panel upside down when every square looks similar.
  • Skipping the color fasten-off Fasten off Color C cleanly after the petal rounds before picking up Color A. Carrying it forward by accident leaves a stray strand trapped inside the next round.
Ruby

The story behind Stitch Obsession, and Ruby, who writes and tests every pattern on the shelf.

Intermediate

The kit

  1. Worsted weight yarn (category 4), smooth and washable
  2. Color A (Sage green): approximately 220 yards (201 meters)
  3. Color B (Cream or off-white): approximately 220 yards (201 meters)
  4. Color C (Warm taupe or mushroom): approximately 80 yards (73 meters)
  1. Lion Brand Pound of Love in Sage, Cream, and Taupe works beautifully. It is 100% acrylic, machine washable, and very soft against baby skin.
  2. Paintbox Yarns Simply DK held double (or their Simply Chunky line) in Grass Green, Champagne White, and Coffee gives excellent stitch definition.
  3. Cascade 220 Superwash in Shire, Cream, and Doeskin Heather is luxuriously soft and blocks beautifully if you prefer wool.
  4. Any smooth worsted weight yarn that achieves gauge will work. Avoid fuzzy or bouclé yarns since they will obscure the granny square detail. Make sure the yarn is machine washable for practicality.
  1. US size G-6 / 4.0 mm (or size needed to achieve gauge)
  1. Yarn needle for weaving ends and joining
  2. 2 wooden buttons, 3/4 inch (19 mm) diameter
  3. Scissors
  4. Locking stitch markers
  5. Pins for blocking

Sunflower Granny Square (5 rounds)

This square features a raised petal center in Color C (taupe), surrounded by Color A (sage) and Color B (cream) shell and chain rounds.

Round 1Petal Round, Color C Make a magic ring (or ch 4, join with sl st to form ring).Ch 1 (does not count as st), work 16 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (16 sc)

Round 2Petal Tops, Color C Ch 1, (sc in next sc, ch 3, sk 1 sc) 8 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc, 8 ch-3 loops forming petals)The ch-3 loops form the sunflower petals. Fasten off Color C after this round and weave end.

Round 3First Shell Round, Color A Join Color A with a sl st in any ch-3 petal loop. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc in same ch-3 sp (half corner begun), ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (corner made), ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1) 1 time, THEN in next ch-3 sp: 3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc (corner), ch 1, (3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1) 1 time.Repeat corner, ch 1, side shell, ch 1 two more times to complete 4 corners and 4 sides.Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.Stitch count for Round 3: 4 corner groups of (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) = 24 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps 4 side groups of (3 dc, ch 1) = 12 dc, 4 ch-1 side spsTotal: 36 dc, 4 ch-2 corner sps, 4 ch-1 side sps Fasten off Color A.

Round 4Second Shell Round, Color B Join Color B with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (corner), ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 side sp, ch 1, [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc in next ch-2 corner sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 side sp, ch 1] rep 3 more times.Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.(4 corner groups, 8 side groups, total 12 shell groups of 3 dc = 36 dc, 8 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 corner sps)Fasten off Color B.

Round 5Finishing Round, Color A Join Color A with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in corner sp (corner made), sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp across to next corner sp, rep for all 4 sides.

Each side has: 3 dc group + 1 ch-1 sp + 3 dc group + 1 ch-1 sp + 3 dc group = 11 sts across each side between corner sts.

Work (sc, ch 2, sc) at each corner, sc in each of 11 sts across each side.

Join with sl st to first sc. (4 corner ch-2 sps, 11 sc along each side, 2 corner sc per corner = 48 sc total plus 4 ch-2 corner sps)

Fasten off Color A. Weave all ends.

The completed square should measure 3 inches by 3 inches (7.5 cm by 7.5 cm) after light blocking.

Ribbed Cuff

Worked in rows, then seamed.

Round 1Ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (12 sc)

Round 2Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each sc across. (12 sc) Repeat Row 2 for length required. The BLO sc creates a stretchy ribbed texture.

Section 9: Work the Ribbed Cuffs

Make 2 cuffs, one for each leg opening.

Measure the circumference of the leg opening at the bottom of the leg panel. It should be approximately 12 inches (30 cm).

Cuff (make 2): Using Color B and US G-6 hook: Foundation chain: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (8 sc)

Round 1Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each sc across. (8 sc) Repeat Row 1 until cuff measures approximately 12 inches (30 cm) in length. This will be approximately 50 to 54 rows. Do not fasten off.Join cuff into a ring: Sl st through the last row and the foundation chain end to seam into a ring.Attach cuff to leg opening:Hold cuff with RS facing out. Align the long outer edge of the cuff with the bottom edge of the leg panel. Using Color B, sc cuff to leg panel, working through both layers. Space stitches evenly around the leg opening, approximately 1 sc per row end of cuff. Join with sl st. Fasten off. Weave ends.Repeat for second leg.

Checkpoint: After attaching both cuffs, the garment should measure approximately 13.5 inches (34 cm) from top of bib to bottom of cuffs.

Section 11: Make the Straps (make 2)

Each strap is worked in rows of sc and attaches at the back bib top corners.

Using Color A and US G-6 hook: Foundation chain: Ch 9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (8 sc)

Round 1Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each sc across. (8 sc)

Round 2Ch 1, turn, sc in BLO of each sc across. (8 sc) Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until strap measures approximately 10 inches (25.5 cm) from foundation. Do not fasten off.Button loop: Ch 5, sl st in first ch to form a loop. Fasten off.Make second strap identical.

Section 1: Make the Granny Squares

Using the Sunflower Granny Square instructions above, make a total of 20 squares .

Group 1 squares (make 10): Round 1 and 2: Color C (taupe center petals)

Round 3: Color A (sage green)

Round 4: Color B (cream)

Round 5: Color A (sage green) Group 2 squares (make 10): Round 1 and 2: Color C (taupe center petals)

Round 3: Color B (cream)

Round 4: Color A (sage green)

Round 5: Color B (cream) Block all 20 squares to 3 inches by 3 inches (7.5 cm by 7.5 cm). Label them Group 1 and Group 2 with removable markers.

Section 2: Assemble the Bib Front Panel

The bib front is a 2 square wide by 2 square tall rectangle.

Arrange squares as follows (viewed from front): Top-left: Group 1 square Top-right: Group 2 square Bottom-left: Group 2 square

Bottom-right: Group 1 square

Round 1Join top-left and top-right squares along their shared vertical edge using the flat join method. Work sl st through corresponding sc sts on Round 5 edges of both squares. (11 sl sts along the edge between corner sts)Step 2: Join bottom-left and bottom-right squares along their shared vertical edge in the same way. (11 sl sts)

Round 2Join the top row to the bottom row along their shared horizontal edge. Work sl st through corresponding sc sts and corner ch-2 sps, matching corners. (11 sl sts plus corner joins)

Checkpoint: After assembling the bib front panel, you should have a flat rectangle measuring approximately 6 inches wide by 6 inches tall (15 cm by 15 cm).

Section 3: Assemble the Bib Back Panel

The bib back is also 2 square wide by 2 square tall.

Arrange squares as follows (viewed from back): Top-left: Group 2 square Top-right: Group 1 square Bottom-left: Group 1 square

Bottom-right: Group 2 square Join in the same sequence as the bib front panel.

Step 1: Join top-left to top-right vertically. (11 sl sts)

Step 2: Join bottom-left to bottom-right vertically. (11 sl sts)

Step 3: Join top row to bottom row horizontally. (11 sl sts plus corners)

Checkpoint: Bib back panel measures approximately 6 inches by 6 inches (15 cm by 15 cm).

Section 4: Assemble the Left Leg Panel

Each leg is a 2 square wide by 2 square tall rectangle.

Left leg square arrangement: Top-left: Group 2 square Top-right: Group 1 square Bottom-left: Group 1 square Bottom-right: Group 2 square

Join all four squares following the same steps as bib panel assembly.

Completed left leg panel: approximately 6 inches wide by 6 inches tall (15 cm by 15 cm).

Section 5: Assemble the Right Leg Panel

Right leg square arrangement: Top-left: Group 1 square Top-right: Group 2 square Bottom-left: Group 2 square Bottom-right: Group 1 square

Join all four squares following the same steps as bib panel assembly.

Completed right leg panel: approximately 6 inches wide by 6 inches tall (15 cm by 15 cm).

Section 6: Assemble the Side Panels

You have 4 remaining squares (2 Group 1, 2 Group 2). These form the side panels that connect the bib front to the bib back around the body.

Make two side panels, each consisting of 2 squares joined vertically (1 square wide, 2 squares tall): Left side panel: Top: Group 1 square

Bottom: Group 2 square Join along horizontal shared edge. (11 sl sts)

Completed side panel: approximately 3 inches wide by 6 inches tall (7.5 cm by 15 cm)

Right side panel: Top: Group 2 square Bottom: Group 1 square Join along horizontal shared edge. (11 sl sts)

Completed side panel: approximately 3 inches wide by 6 inches tall (7.5 cm by 15 cm)

Section 7: Join All Body Panels

The overall layout when laid flat is: [Left Side Panel] [Bib Front Panel] [Right Side Panel] [Bib Back Panel]

This forms a horizontal strip that wraps around the baby’s body.

Step 1: Join the right edge of the Left Side Panel to the left edge of the Bib Front Panel. Work sl st flat join along the full 6 inch edge. (22 sl sts)

Step 2: Join the right edge of the Bib Front Panel to the left edge of the Right Side Panel. (22 sl sts)

Step 3: Join the right edge of the Right Side Panel to the left edge of the Bib Back Panel. (22 sl sts)

Step 4: Join the right edge of the Bib Back Panel to the left edge of the Left Side Panel, forming a tube. (22 sl sts)

Checkpoint: The body is now a tube measuring approximately 18 inches in circumference (46 cm) and 6 inches tall (15 cm).

Section 8: Attach Leg Panels

Mark the center bottom of the bib front panel and the center bottom of the bib back panel with stitch markers.

Step 1: Attach the Left Leg Panel.

Align the top edge of the Left Leg Panel with the left half of the body tube bottom edge.

Left front seam: join left 3 inches of front bottom to left edge of left leg panel. (11 sl sts)

Left back seam: join left 3 inches of back bottom to right edge of left leg panel. (11 sl sts)

Step 2: Attach the Right Leg Panel.

Right front seam: join right 3 inches of front bottom to right edge of right leg panel. (11 sl sts)

Right back seam: join right 3 inches of back bottom to left edge of right leg panel. (11 sl sts)

Step 3: Seam the inner leg (crotch).

Join the center front bottom edge to the center back bottom edge. Use yarn needle and mattress stitch or sl st seam, working through both layers. (approximately 11 sts each side)

Step 4: Close the left leg tube.

Join the left edge of the Left Leg Panel to the right edge of the Left Leg Panel along the full 6 inch vertical seam. (22 sl sts)

Step 5: Close the right leg tube.

Join the left edge of the Right Leg Panel to the right edge of the Right Leg Panel along the full 6 inch vertical seam. (22 sl sts)

Checkpoint: The overall garment body should measure approximately 12 inches (30.5 cm) from the top of the bib to the bottom of the leg panels.

Section 10: Work the Top Edge Border

Round 1Using Color A and US G-6 hook: Front bib top edge: Work sc across the 2 top squares of the front bib.

Round 2Each square top edge has 11 sc (from Round 5) plus 1 corner sc at each end = 13 sc per square.(13)

Round 3Across 2 squares with shared center corner combined: (13 + 11) = 24 sc along the front bib top.(24)

Round 4Ch 1, sc in each of 24 sc across. Fasten off.(24)

Round 5Back bib top edge: Repeat for back bib. 24 sc across. Fasten off.(24)

Section 12: Attach Straps and Buttons

Step 1: Identify the two top back corners of the back bib panel.

Step 2: Using yarn needle and Color A, sew the foundation chain end of each strap securely to the top back corners of the back bib. Work several passes through the strap and bib edge to secure firmly.

Step 3: Bring each strap up over the shoulder and down the front of the bib.

Step 4: Mark button placement on front bib approximately 0.75 inch (2 cm) from the top edge of the front bib and approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) from each side edge.

Step 5: Sew one wooden button at each marked placement on the front bib RS.

Step 6: Loop the button loop of each strap over the corresponding wooden button to close.

Checkpoint: The overall length from the top of the strap over the shoulder and down to the bottom of the cuffs should measure approximately 19 inches (48 cm).

Assembly

Step 1Step 1: Weave in all remaining yarn ends securely, locking ends within the back of the granny square stitching.

Step 2Step 2: Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of gentle wool wash or baby-safe soap. Submerge the garment and gently press to saturate. Do not wring.

Step 3Step 3: Press out excess water by rolling in a clean towel.

Step 4Step 4: Lay flat on a blocking mat. Pin each square to its finished 3 inch by 3 inch dimensions, smoothing corners square. Pin cuffs open. Allow to dry fully (12 to 24 hours).

Step 5Step 5: Once dry, check all seams and strap attachments. Reinforce any joins that feel loose with additional yarn needle stitching.

Finishing

  1. Weave in every remaining yarn end, tucking them into the back of the granny square stitching so none show through.
  2. Hand wash the assembled overalls in cool water with a gentle soap, pressing rather than wringing to saturate evenly.
  3. Block flat, pinning each square square to its finished dimension and pinning the cuffs open before the final dry.

Why it works

The sunflower square starts with a 16-stitch ring in taupe, then the petal round skips every other stitch to form chain-3 loops, so the raised texture comes from that spacing, not a separate round of popcorn or bobble stitches.

Cuffs are worked flat in rows of single crochet through the back loop only, then seamed into a ring afterward, because ribbing stretches more easily when built row by row than when worked in the round from the start.

The join-as-you-go seam goes through corresponding stitches of both squares' right sides simultaneously, which is why it sits flat on the front and shows as a ridge only on the wrong side.

What it becomes

  • A baby shower gift that reads as handmade and lasts longer than a onesie.
  • A keepsake piece for a first birthday photo, paired with a plain cream bodysuit underneath.
  • A washable heirloom to pass between siblings or cousins, since the fiber is machine washable.

Original pattern: https://crochetwithmia.com/sage-and-cream-granny-square-baby-overalls-free-pattern/

FAQ

Can I use a different sport or DK weight yarn instead of worsted?

The pattern is written for worsted weight, so a lighter yarn will shrink the finished squares and throw off the leg and bib proportions. If you substitute, swatch a square first and compare it to the stated finished dimension.

Do I need to know how to join granny squares before starting this?

No, but it helps to have made squares before, even if you have never assembled them. The pattern treats the join-as-you-go seam as the main new skill, and gives extra time for that stage.

Why are the ribbed cuffs worked flat instead of in the round?

Working the cuff in rows of single crochet through the back loop builds in stretch row by row. It is then seamed into a ring afterward, which is easier to control than ribbing worked directly in the round.

How do I know if my squares are the right size before assembling?

Pin each finished square to its blocked dimension before joining anything together. Uneven squares at this stage will cause the panels to pucker once they are seamed into the bib and legs.

The next find, by post

One pattern from the collection when it is ready. Nothing else.