Free Pattern Step-by-Step Crochet

Spider Motif Lace Shawl Worked Join-As-You-Go

A modular spider motif shawl joined as you go, worked in angora for a lacy, seamless finish.

Level
Intermediate
Time
4-6 hours
Hook
13 mm
Yarn
Lightweight
Spider Motif Lace Shawl Worked Join-As-You-Go

Pattern highlights

  1. Start each spider motif with a center loop, then work four dc groups separated by ch-3 corners.
  2. Turn and build outward in rounds, treating each ch-3 as a stand-in for the first dc.
  3. Join new motifs to previous ones as you work later rounds, rather than sewing pieces together afterward.
  4. Repeat the motif and joining process across the full set of rounds until the shawl reaches its size.
  5. Weave in ends as you finish each motif so none pile up for later.
  6. Add an optional edging, such as sc, hdc, or a spider web border, once all motifs are joined.
  7. Block the finished shawl to open the lace and square off the points.

About This Pattern

I keep a shelf for motif work, and this shawl earns its spot. It is not a single sprawling piece but a cluster of spider motifs, joined as they grow. That makes it a good middle project — bigger than a coaster, smaller than a full blanket commitment. I like a pattern that lets me stop between motifs without losing my place.

The technique here is join-as-you-go, which I trust more than a pile of seams at the end. Each motif starts in the round from a center loop, builds its dc groups and ch-3 corners, then locks onto its neighbor mid-round. No separate seaming session. No tapestry needle marathon after the fact, beyond the usual ends.

What comes out the other side is a shawl with real drape and open lace, thanks to the angora or mohair-blend yarn the pattern calls for. The spider motifs give it a webbed, dramatic look rather than a dense granny-square feel. It reads as delicate but holds its shape once blocked.

Gauge is not critical for this pattern — looser tension gives an airier, more open fabric, so feel free to adjust your hook size to the drape you want. Motifs are worked in the round, the starting ch-3 counts as the first dc of the round, and you may begin each motif with a magic ring instead of a chain loop if you prefer.

Worth knowing

There is a particular satisfaction in watching a spider motif open up from six stitches into four full dc groups by the end of round one. I like that the corners are built in from the start, not fudged in later — ch-3 corners doing double duty as both structure and lace. Working join-as-you-go also means I avoid the part of motif crochet I dislike most: sewing dozens of squares together at the end. Each new motif clicks into its neighbor as I go, so the shawl grows as one connected piece almost from the start. And because the whole thing is adaptable in scale, I can make the motifs bigger or smaller and still trust the geometry to hold.

Common mistakes

  • Forgetting the ch-3 counts as a stitch Treat the starting ch-3 as your first dc every round, or your stitch groups will fall out of alignment. Check your corner count if the motif looks lopsided.
  • Skipping the turn between rounds Round 2 specifically calls for a turn — miss it and the join-as-you-go seams won't line up right. Turn, then chain for the corner.
  • Joining motifs at the wrong round Join-as-you-go only works if you connect during the later rounds, not the center. Keep the earlier rounds motif-only, then link as instructed.
  • Using too heavy a yarn This lace effect depends on a soft, lightweight fiber like angora or a mohair blend. A worsted-weight substitute will stiffen the drape and hide the openwork.
  • Blocking too lightly Lace motifs like this need real stretching to open the ch-3 spaces and square the points. A gentle press won't do it — block with intention.
  • Joining spaces, not stitches When joining motifs, be sure to connect matching stitches, not just spaces, for a flat, neat join. Also avoid working motifs too tightly, or the joins may pucker.
  • Using the labeled hook size exactly best drape with angora yarn, use a hook at least 1mm larger than the label recommends. Use stitch markers to mark motif corners and count your dcs and chs each round for even motifs.
Ruby

The story behind Stitch Obsession, and Ruby, who writes and tests every pattern on the shelf.

Intermediate

The kit

Yarn

  1. Angora or similar lightweight mohair-blend yarn. Substitute with soft lightweight acrylic or wool for preference.

Hook

  1. 13 mm (Size P/Q or 5 in some metric systems–adjust to suit yarn and desired drape)

Tools

  1. Tapestry needle (for weaving in ends and joining motifs if preferred)
  2. Scissors
  3. Optional: Stitch markers (to mark corners as you work), blocking pins.

chain

Special Notes: Motif is worked in the round. Ch 3 at start of round counts as first dc. You may start each motif with a magic ring instead of a chain loop. Motifs are joined on the final round using the Join-As-You-Go (JAYGO) method. Increase the number of motifs for a larger shawl.

Round 1Center Ch 6 , join with a sl st to form a loop (or use a magic ring). Ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in loop , ch 3 , 5 dc in loop, ch 3 ; rep from * to * 2 more times.( You should have 4 groups of 5 dc separated by ch-3 corners )Join with a sl st to top of starting ch-3.

Round 2Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch-3 corner), turn. In same corner: ( 3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc ) in space, ch 3 , in next ch-3 sp: (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc).Continue around, making (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in each corner, ch 3 between corners.For final corner, after last (3 dc), ch 3 , join with sl st to 3rd ch of start ch-6.

Round 3Ch 6, sc in next ch-3 sp , ch 2 . (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 corner , ch 2, sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2.Rep step 2 at each corner; after final corner, finish with sc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, join with sl st to 3rd ch of start ch-6.

Round 4Ch 6 , (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in each ch-3 corner, dc in next 6 dc (along each motif side), ch 2, sc in ch-2 spaces between the main clusters for lacy effect.Continue around, join as before.

Round 5Final motif/joining round Ch 6. (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in each corner. On each side: dc in each st across (should be increasing by 3 dcs on each row per motif). If joining to another motif, at the 3rd ch of the corner ch-3 sp, connect to the adjacent motif with a sl st instead of ch 3, then continue.Continue around, joining in the corners and sides wherever motifs meet. For open sides, work as normal motif.Join-As-You-Go (JAYGO) MethodOn the final round, work first corner as usual. For the next corner , when reaching the ch-3 sp, insert hook into the corner sp of the motif you want to join, sl st to join, continue with 3 dc in your motif.Along the sides, after every 3 dc, sl st to matching space on the adjacent motif.Continue motif round, joining corners and sides in this manner.Where three or more motifs meet (multi-join), join in the central chain space of all touching motifs.

Half Motif (for shawl edges)

Work partial rounds to fill triangle spaces along shawl top:

Start as for main motif , but only work over two or three sides (half or corner square), increasing at the corners as you would for a full motif.

Join as with full motifs, aligning to fill gaps.

Shawl Construction

For a triangle shawl:

Row 1 Start with 1 motif.

Row 2 Join 2 motifs to previous motif, side by side.

Row 3 Join 3 motifs, and so forth, increasing by 1 motif each row.

Continue until 7 or desired number of motifs in final row for your desired size.

Fill in triangle gaps at the top with half motifs.

Assembly

Step 1Weave in all ends securely with a tapestry needle.

Step 2Optional: Add a border of sc or hdc along the shawl edges for stability or border interest, or work a spider web edging as desired.

Step 3Block shawl gently to open up lace and ensure points.

Finishing

  1. Weave in all ends securely with a tapestry needle as each motif is completed.
  2. Add an optional border — sc, hdc, or a spider web edging — once every motif is joined.
  3. Block the shawl gently to open the lace pattern and sharpen the motif points.

Why it works

Round 1 sets the whole motif's geometry: four dc groups of five, separated evenly by ch-3 corners.

The corners in later rounds work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into each ch-3 space, so increases happen exactly at those four corner points every round.

Turning at the start of round 2 flips the working direction, which is what lets the join-as-you-go connections meet cleanly against neighboring motifs.

What it becomes

  • A lightweight wrap for cool evenings, worn over a plain dress or a simple knit top.
  • A textural throw for a reading chair, especially paired with solid-color cushions to let the lace show.
  • A gift piece for someone who likes handmade accessories with visible, deliberate stitchwork.

Original pattern: https://redagapeblog.com/crochet-knitted-shawl-adnan-free-crochet-shawl-pattern/

FAQ

Can I make this shawl bigger or smaller?

Yes — the pattern notes that motifs are easy to adapt in size. Add or remove rounds per motif, or change how many motifs you join, to scale the whole shawl.

Do I have to use angora yarn?

No, angora or a similar mohair blend is recommended for the lace drape, but the pattern allows substituting a soft lightweight acrylic or wool. Just expect a slightly different hand and openness in the finished lace.

Is the join-as-you-go method hard to learn?

It takes a little attention the first time, but it is really just working stitches into an existing motif's spaces instead of a fresh chain. It saves the separate seaming step entirely.

What size hook does this pattern use?

The pattern calls for a 13 mm hook, roughly a US P/Q or a size 5 in some metric systems. Adjust up or down slightly depending on your yarn and how much drape you want.

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